Oaxaca, Day 2 and back to Mexico City

pastriesWe got up and found the hipster breakfast spot, Boulenc, in Oaxaca.  Who knew.  An open kitchen in the back with a few seats at the bar next to a large oven where they are baking pastries, Parisian style.

dogsThey bake and cook while their dogs hang out in front….and bark.  For a tranquil town the place is far from quiet.

breakfastSimple breakfast.

gardenStopped in Museo Casa Juarez.  An old building with an open garden in the middle of the home.

ladstoreLa Tiendita del Barro is a shop owned by a few women that sell local ceramics.

streetsnocarThe selection is limiting but the area of town that it is in has large open streets where no cars roam.

knittingEven a knitting club in this area.

moleHad to check out the church before leaving.  Around the square are a variety of shops.  I walked into Mole y Chocolate Calenda.  Tasted a few moles and got one and a jar of chilis.  There was a serious language issue between me and the woman who ran the store.  What she did was so smart.  She had me talk into her IPhone to ask questions and then it translated into Spanish so she knew what I was asking.  Loved that.

churchThe church, Iglesia de Santa Domingo de Guzman, is the center of the town.  Old and beautiful.

schoolkidsAll the school kids wandered around in groups in their uniforms.  They were getting some popsicles here.

donarosaThen it was time to get out of town and head to Dona Rosa, Casa de Barro located in San Bartolo Coyotepec.  There are three places to see and buy black pottery.  One is this one which own and operated by the Dona Rosa family for generations.

traditionalvaseTheir pots are very traditional.  We picked up this one.  Just to give you an idea of the cost…$12.50

modernThe other spot is Galeria Muguel Fabian where they make more modern pieces.  Really great stuff here.  They are making some pieces that could fill an entire wall.  Smart entrepreneurs who are working with hotels, homes and designers.

vase1We picked up this piece for $75.   Wrapping these pieces up and getting thru the airport is going to be interesting.  The other place is the market but these two places are much more interesting and legit.

remnantsWe got a look at how they make the pieces here.  These are remnants of what works and what didn’t.

potEverything is made by hand.  Here is what the pieces look like before going to the kiln.

kilnThe kiln is a two prong piece.  The square in the floor is where the heat comes from and underneath there is a hole that connects to the circle in the ground which is the kiln.  Old school stuff.

bagHere is our bag filled with ceramics and lots of bubble wrap!  We picked the bag up at the airport.

totoiWe shifted gears when we got back to Mexico City and had sushi.  The sake cart is a nice touch.  The restaurant is Tori Tori.

sakeHidden behind a black door that opens into a beautiful open garden with light shining up.

sushiNice to have a little sushi before returning to the tostados today.

Comments (Archived):

  1. Tracey Jackson

    OK that iPhone translation idea is genius. Heading for Italy today and will totally use it. Good luck with those pots at airport. Second one is exceptionally pretty!

    1. Gotham Gal

      Enjoy ??

  2. pointsnfigures

    the black pottery is very cool. i love Mexican ceramics. Trouble is you have to make sure they don’t have lead in them if you are going to use them as dishes.

  3. panterosa,

    I have a gorgeous painting of the Oaxaca market from RISD painter friend Frank Gardner who lives in San Miguel de Allende. Are you going that way? They have such an amazing selection of artisan things from all over Mexico.Did you get Tajín on your paleta? Frank’s wife turned us on to it.