Last sunday in Paris
How could we come all the way to Paris and not do at least a walk through the Paris Flea markets which are located at the Porte de Clingancourt stop on the Metro/4. A tremendous amount of the markets are permanent. Tons of tiny shops mostly loaded with antique furniture.
You walk through a very seedy area before finding the markets. I am glad I took the girls but not so sure I would ever go again unless I happened to purchase a chateau and took some one along who really knew what they were buying in order to decorate my chateau. There are a few places that carry more modern antiques but most of it is heaps of schlock. Although there was one jeweler who had an incredible vintage collection of Chanel and Schriaparelli jewelry but this stuff is not cheap nor a bargain. So, we came, we looked and headed out. Just take note, this is not a place to dress. We dressed way down. Sweaters, jeans and no jewelry.
Enough with the antiques, we headed up to Montmartre which was en route to the area we were in. Gridskipper, which is Emily and Jessica’s favorite travel site, pointed us towards the best boulangeries in all of Paris
. In full disclosure, I am an investor in Gridskipper which is now part of Curbed. The girls were thrilled when Gridskipper became part of Curbed. The maps, the information, completely trustworthy site, at least for us.
Emily had google maps and gridskipper going on her blackberry. We had 3 places to hit up because all of them were not open on Sunday. We began at Coquelicot which came in sixth place in
the annual Baguette contest this year. There is a baguette contest each year and the winning baker delivers baguettes each morning to the President. Pretty cool.
We ordered a petit baguette and an almond croissant. The almond croissant was hands down the best I have ever had. Gooey, rich, crusty and you can’t just take one bite. We also loved the place. Very farm like with breads, pastries like eclairs and they serve breakfast all day. The boulangerie sits inside the bistro. A huge favorite.
We then walked down the street to Pain Abbesses (Abbesses is the metro stop). We had a small roll with dried raisins and a canneles. We have seen the canneles everywhere and these looks really good. They look like small popovers about the size of your finger in height and round about half the size of your first. They are fluffy on top and dense on the bottom. Filled with an almond paste and liqueur. Now I know why they are sold everywhere. They are really good.
We continued to walk for the next boulangerie but it was closed. We decided to go back to Coquelicot and
have a coffee. The girls each had a coffee which comes in a bowl. First cup of coffee we have had vs espresso or creme de coffee which is basically cappuccino but denser. We also had to buy another almond croissant and a chocolate croissant to bring home for the boys. The chocolate croissant they make has almond paste in it too. A total wow.
We are going to come back here for breakfast before we leave. They also love their jam in Paris, love the big jars just hanging out. I would rank
Coquelicot as my favorite boulangerie in all of Paris. Mellow, not fancy, neighborhood oriented. Sort of the Grey Dog of the neighborhood. Montmarte, once you get away from the Sacre-Couer area, is cute. For some reason, it is boulangerie central. We can’t decide if they just ended up there or it has to do being at the highest peak of Paris for bread rising. Can’t imagine it is but whatever the case, it would be fun to return during the week when everything is open and go from boulangerie to boulangerie just tasting and make your own conclusions.
We came home. Making dinner at home tonight. Josh and Fred spent two hours at the Louvre. Tomorrow is Bastille day. Should be interesting…