another day in paris and my feet are pounding

First thing this morning, we got up and took the Metro over to Les Deux Magots.   A classic Parisian cafe, ridiculously overpriced.  Josh had his caffeine shot of Coke Light which was about $8 for the bottle.  The wonderful half baguettes we each ordered were fantastic.  They come with bread and jam.  Oh, did I mention they charge you an extra $3 per jar of jam and don't even ask what flavor you would prefer.  Regardless, there is nothing quite like bread, butter and jam with fresh squeezed orange juice on the side to start off the day watching Parisians walk the street at the same time.  

The weather has been strange.  One minute sunny, the next raining.  We strolled back over to the art gallery Fred and I had walked into the other night.  This time, we purchased.  The pieces I liked the other night didn't really resonate with me over the past 48 hours but one painting Fred loved and still loved when we walked back in.  We bought it.  A Spanish artist, Vall Karsune. 

Josh, on the other hand, not only loved the piece Fred liked but was obsessed with the gnome giving the finger for his room.  The artist, Ottmar Horl,  had a few originals signed but then had mass produced them in plastic.  We opted for that and Josh was thrilled.  

After the weather cleared, we walked over to Muriel Grateau.  Her tabletop linens are the best.  I bought a tablecloth over 10 years ago here and it still is in good shape.  It was time for a replacement.  I got a black tablecloth and red napkins.  Everything is basic but the colors are beautiful as you can see from the picture. 

Muriel 1
This is my favorite pic of Josh and Fred waiting for me while I do the deed at Muriel Grateau.  Like father, like son.

Fred went back to the hotel to get Emily and Josh and I marched onward.  The exhibit at the Petit Palais is a retrospective of Yves Saint Laurent. The exhibit is phenomenal.  Actual pieces from all the years.  Whoever curated this show did an amazing job.  There was a black wall with all of his black designs devoted to the smoking jacket era that was breathtaking.  YSL's influence is significant today.  So many of the pieces in the exhibit were as modern today as they were in 1967.  There was one particular gown.  Red with black string lacing up the back.  The fabric was draped perfectly and the gown was strapless.  Even Josh commented on the beauty of this piece.  One room was devoted to Catherine Deneuve's closet of YSL pieces.  Another room was his office, desk and pieces he had hanging behind his desk.  On the right of this was a movie of YSL sitting at his desk just drawing at quite a young age.  Watching him draw was extraordinary to watch how his brain just churned it out.  Really incredible exhibit.

Chocolate shpo
Fred and Emily were a little behind us so Josh and I forged onward.  In the 9th, is a chocolate shop that we have been attempting to get to each time we have been in Paris.  It always seems to be closed when we are here.  Not today.  The store is called L'Etoile D'Or run by the nicest women.  The woman who owns the store is Denise Acabo.  She dons a plaid short pleated skirt, braids in her hair and is probably in her 70's.  Quite the memorable character. 

This store carries chocolate, lots of chocolate.  She has amassed chocolate from the best places around. 

Today the store was prepped for Easter.  Josh and I went a little nuts but all worth it.

We hopped back on the metro and met Fred and Emily back at the Palais Royal for a little more shopping.  By the time I got back to the hotel, my feet were killing me.  Just enough time to kick off my shoes to get ready for dinner. 

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Comments (Archived):

  1. David

    Actually, the artist’s name is Vall Karsunke. He’s from Barcelona. I’m a big fan. You can view his portfolio (including the painting you bought) here:….

    1. Gotham Gal

      Very cool. Do you know him?

  2. Michael Jung

    The Gnome isn’t a Gnome. It’s a ‘Gartenzwerg’.…They are object of cult in Germany, to place them in the garden et al. Some +25 millions are now colonizing the gardens of German housholds. But not only Germany, I have seen them in the Netherlands, Denmark, Poland and UK/Scotland.

    1. Gotham Gal

      They are also in gardens in the US. Didn’t realize the name wasgartenzwerg.

      1. Yule Heibel

        …And then there are the Garden Gnome Liberationists! The wikipedia page mentions the gnome/ Gartenzwerg’s “priapic” origins, which makes the gnome Josh chose even more fun… 😉

  3. William Mougayar

    That picture of Josh & Fred is priceless. I’ve noted L’Etoile d’Or on our to do list.

    1. Gotham Gal

      Have your concierge call before you go to make sure they are open.Picture is definitely a classic!

      1. William Mougayar

        Ha! I speak perfect French, and usually call directly. I have a local cell #, so they don’t suspect I’m a visitor. (also handy for calling cabs too- you can get one for 50 euros with no contract, including the phone which can be unlocked, from an Orange store). But I hate it that they start the meter on the taxi the minute you call them.

        1. Gotham Gal

          Hate that too

        2. Mark Essel

          Note to self: when I plan a European vacation, coincide the journey with William.

          1. William Mougayar

            Avec plaisir.

      2. Mark Essel

        Gotta chime in to agree with William and Paramendra. The picture with Fred and Josh is priceless. Keen eye to catch it, don’t let that one go.

        1. Gotham Gal

          It should pop up on the montage at our 50th bday parties…LOL!

          1. Mark Essel

            I have to hide your blog from my fiance or she’ll get anxious about a European trip (our honey moon is planned for Maui, making our next vaca next year sometime). Some of the food and sights are irresistible.She’s very excited about travelling. I’m very excited about saving enough so we can travel 🙂

          2. Gotham Gal

            Congrats on getting married. Just getting out and seeing how other peoplelive is the best part of traveling. Some of the best spots are the dives!

  4. DonRyan

    Regarding your gnome or whatever he is, I went to the artist’s website and ordered one. That is classic!

  5. paramendra

    The pictures of the two guys thumbing away is really something. Nice, nice shot. One for the awards.