another day in paris

After some serious sleep, Fred and I got up for a croissant and coffee.  We walked a few blocks from our hotel, sat in a cafe and planned our day.  Josh and Emily were still sleeping and told us last night not to wake them up.  We obeyed.

La bovida
After full being fully caffeinated, we took a quick trip around an area near Les Halles which has a bunch of kitchen stores all located with in a few blocks of each other.  First stop E. Dehillerin.  A true haven.  The staff couldn't be nicer.  They have every single utensil you can think of.  Total old school.  I did think about buying a handful of copper pots but reconsidered realizing I can have them shipped directly to my house if I want.  No need to haul them through customs.  We left there and waled over to La Bovida which is another store chocked full of kitchen supplies for amateurs and professionals.  The big difference between E. Dehillerin and La Bovida is organization and centuries.  La Bovida has a bit more of the new stuff and you could walk around in white gloves where as E. Dehillerin hasn't been cleaned in years.  This picture is from La Bovida.  Check out the size of the paella pan hanging in the back (you can barely see it in the far left).  Must be 3 feet in diameter.

Kitchen bazaare
After that we stopped in to Kitchen Bazaar.  There are a few of them around the city.  Many of the items come from England.  I bought a few things.  One item was a chopping board that folds into 3 after use so you can easily pour what ever you have just chopped into the bowl.  Simple and a total, "duh" but I have never seen it before.  I also got a small can opener that supposedly works to pop a hard to open top instead of having to use the Oxo piece that is shaped like a triangle and opens up those hard to turn tops.  We will see.  And a basic plastic bottle with the perfect opening for pouring sauces on a plate.  Last was an object that looks like a pen.  You stuff it with icing to write on a cake and use it like a pen.  Clever but again, we will see how it works.

We connected with Emily and Josh and they met us in the Marais at Les Marches des Enfant Rouge which is a market place filled with tiny restaurants and food stalls.  We always go back to the same one there that serves Japanese food.  There have constructed a tiny structure with picnic tables inside for winter.  The food is so good there.  Fred got a bento box with grilled sardines.  Sardines flattened out and grilled in a mixture of Japanese spices.

The rest of us went with the raw salmon cut into small pieces over warm rice topped with chopped scallions. Tofu
For a side order, we had some tofu.  You can't go wrong here. 

Emily has a friend in town so she took a pass and hooked us up with later.  We walked over to Merci which is a concept store in the Marais.  On route we stopped by a store called Blank.  The t-shirts were very cool and Josh picked up two. 

Merci is a mixture of many concept stores we have seen throughout Europe.  T.A.D. in Rome,  Q in Bangkok and 10 Corso Como in Milan to name a few. 

A mixture of clothes, art, tabletop and of course a cafe.  Personally, I didn't love Merci. 

The vibe and look they are trying to create had more of a bend towards country than modern.  Although they carried some good designers, more were for Emily than for me.  Worth checking out. 

We then went on a small shopping spree for Josh stopping at April 77 and APC.  Shopping for clothes must be innate and Josh's gene has just kicked in.  His attention span is short but he was getting into it.

The 3 of us took the tube over to La Pinacotheque to see the Edward Munch exhibit.  Quite the retrospective.  This particular space is off the Madeline stop which is chocked full of gourmet food stores which I recommend strolling through…and of course eating too.  The Munch exhibit was fantastic is you love Munch.  I am not sure his stuff rocks my world.  Long career, much more varied and prolific than I realized but otherwise, not my thing.

Josh:pierre herme
Fred cut out on Josh and me.  The two of us kept going.  Josh remembered there was a Pierre Herme right near where we were.  We picked up a few goodies for the room.  They don't sell the double napoleon at this Pierre Herme location only at the one on the left bank.  Worth the journey if you haven't had it before.  Beyond delicious and worth every single calorie.  Pick up a jar of jam for the trip home too. 

Then we did a little more shopping for me where Josh helped me out but no purchases today.  Back to the hotel for a little R and R before dins.

Comments (Archived):

  1. Florent Peyre

    Ahhh… I used to live right close from La Bovida, cross with the Rue Montorgeuil… Anyway, don’t forget to go grab a cocktail at the Experimental Cocktail Club, rue St Sauveur (you can find it on Foursquare, I created the place there…). Great great cocktails and fun crowd at night, starting 8-9 PM. And if you’re looking for good cheese, don’t forget to stop by R2L, 13 rue Rambuteau. Amazing cheese, particularly big fan of the “Tete de Moine”.Enjoy Paris….

  2. bijan

    lauren and i are loving your posts from paris.we are headed there next month to celebrate our 15th year anniversary. can’t wait!

    1. Gotham Gal

      We love it here!

  3. William Mougayar

    Hi Joanne,Enjoying reading about your Paris trip, Herme & Robuchon… If u have time, try a Cannele at Laduree, something you won’t find in the US. They are specialties from Bordeaux, crunchy outside & softer crepe-like inside. I’m waiting to hear about a 3 Michelin star dinner there: will it be Pierre Gagnaire or Le Meurice?

    1. Gotham Gal

      Been to Pierre Gagnaire before and rolled out the door. We stayed at LeMeurice two winters ago and didn’t eat there although I have heard fantasticfeedback on the food. We are not making our way to Le Meurice this time.Although I do love a delicious cannele especially in Paris.

      1. William Mougayar

        That’s great. We’re going there in June, so I’ll look for getting tips from you then.Last year, we got tired of the Michelins (except for Robuchon), and went all out on the Bistros.I would kill for a fresh cannelé now- couldn’t find any good ones in north america, although I’ve hunted for them.

        1. Gotham Gal

          The best are in Montmarte. If you do a search on Gridskipper there is a map that will show you the top bakeries in that area. Just go from bakery to bakery eating the highlights.

  4. Yule Heibel

    Sounds like you’re having a great trip – like many others, I’m vicariously tagging along and enjoying your reports very much.Heck, there’s the added bonus of reading them like a Zen exercise: I get to practice detachment, serenely letting go of my first impulse, which is best described as unadulterated envy! ;-)…Ah, Paris! Enjoy!

    1. Gotham Gal

      Glad I can keep you entertained!

  5. chefbikram

    GG,I tried to email you about this last time you were in Paris…a year or more ago??? anyway, this is from our site: it’s a place to eat — well sort of…read on. called hidden kitchen: (may be too late to book)Why: This is for the adventurous type who likes to be surprised. We think any traveler staying in Paris for more than 4 nights should consider this option. In fact, Hidden Kitchen may be a better fit for our Go Play section! The catch is that you need to book way in advance. You can also put your name on the cancellation list. The hosts, Americans Laura and Braden, offer a fixed 10 course menu that you will only find out about when you sit down to enjoy it with your dining partners. And you will only find out exactly where to go a few days in advance. There will be 16 total guests at the table. Typically HK attracts Americans and Brits.What: Expect a gourmet menu based upon what is seasonal and of exceptional quality. Check the website for an example menu. Here are some recent dishes served: corn soup with black bean salsa, chilled crab cake, Atlantic salmon over Israeli cous cous, heirloom tomatoes over mozzarella fondue, cherry handpie and rootbeer float, sauteed mackerel with sunchoke puree, crispy carnitas with red onion, tomato, avocado and lime salad, white radish basket with spring veggies, house smoked trout with buttermilk distressed greens.When: Dinner onlyTab: Fixed price–around 70 EuroNotes: Need to book way in advance

    1. Gotham Gal

      I know hidden kitchen. I have emailed back and forth with the owners manytimes. Each time we have been here, they have not. It is almost comical atthis point. We have talked about restaurants through email and places theywere visiting when we were in Paris. I am sure we will eventually getthere. At least I am now on a first name basis with the owners.

  6. leafar

    Did you stopped at Fabien place ? For anonymous pictures ? Did you see the Google me wall at the corner of rue de bretagne et rue charlot ?

    1. fredwilson

      where is that leafar?

      1. leafar

        It was inside the marché des enfants rouges. It’s the shop where Jessica bought her PEN EE. It’s 35 rue charlot, 75003.If you have time for another diner you should try Guilo Guilo in term of japanese food it’s amazing.…Enjoy the rest of your parisian trip.

        1. Gotham Gal

          We went to the photoshop. Love that place. Going to Guilo Guilo tomorrow night!

          1. leafar

            Fun your are nearly nailing my paris ;-DOne last recommandation if you want to bring some spices : Goumanyat (3 Rue Dupuis, 3rd M° Temple tel 01 44 78 96 74)I do recommand the combawa oil. Used by the sakana chef in honfleur.And to buy food ustencil i go rather to A. Simon (48-52 rue Montmartre) which is really close but is cheaper with a broader choice. Nevertheless the shop is less beautifull.Have a nice trip.

          2. Gotham Gal

            Thanks so much! Will add these places to my list

        2. fredwilson

          we have reservations for guilo guilo this weekgotham gal booked them in advance of our tripglad to know her intelligence is up to snuffand we did go into that photo shop. i didn’t know it was called fabien.great store!

          1. leafar

            ;-DHave you try Roberta’s in NY ? What would be your 3 favourites mid range price places in NY. I am going in june ?

          2. fredwilson

            i have not but our friends in brooklyn say its greatwe don’t get to brooklyn enough to be honesti’ll be back to on our top 3

          3. Gotham Gal

            I can send you a list. Send me a direct email.

          4. leafar

            Thanks you both… I am so happy to visit NY it’s been a while.Mail on the way.Two other quick tips: For bread :…And for late diner a place with ana amazing old paris style and perfect classical cuisine :

          5. William Mougayar

            Leafar thanks for the last 2 recommendations. I like them. Last year, I looked for those bakeries and pastry shops that had won the concours from the chambre professionnelle des artisans boulangers-patissiers.

  7. dearcasey

    i love reading this…

  8. dearcasey

    jealous! have a beautiful trip xo casey

    1. Gotham Gal

      Thanks Casey.

  9. fredwilson

    that grilled sardine bento box was outstanding. it really couldn’t have been any better.