Paris…and 96 degrees
It is purely uncivilized to be in Paris sweating but that is what we are doing. It is 96 outside which means it is even hotter inside. Air conditioning is not widespread and truth be told, this heat is rare. Shop owners are fretting and I don’t blame them. Walking into their stores, restaurants or even some museums is like being in a low-grade sauna. Regardless, we soldiered through and had the best eating day we have had all month.
Our first stop was Coutume, a sweet little coffee shop near the Rodin Museum. Good coffee and food all day. We sat in the window, praying for a breeze, and have coffee, freshly squeezed OJ and breakfast.
The Rodin Museum had a major renovation and reopened two years ago. They are having an Ansel Keifer/Rodin exhibit right now. There are a bunch of Rodin installations around the globe right now, it is the 100 year marking of his death. The curators note the thread of their work that speaks to a past life and a life to come.
I have always loved this museum and no matter how many times I see the Kiss, I smile.
It is small and the gardens are beautiful. Sitting outside in the shade is the way to go.
We did a bit of talking over to a poster shop that we have walked by countless times. Why we chose today to enter is beyond me but we did. I stood there while sweat dripped down my face but did manage to purchase these 3 posters.
Always check to see what museums are open and which are closed. We shifted gears and went over to the 15th to see the Balenciaga installation at Musee Bourdelle. They set up some of the pieces throughout the museum that is filled with the permanent statutes.
At first, it seemed a reach but then there was a full on room downstairs with pieces from the past. All black, all beautiful and amazing. Balenciaga was trained from a tailor so it is not surprising to see the drapes of the clothing to create timeless pieces.
Even the jewelry is off the charts.
We grabbed a fully air-conditioned car and went over to L’Avant Comptoir. A wine bar that is wall to wall people at night but pretty open during lunch. We grabbed a seat at the bar, had a very cold crisp glass of white wine and ordered a few things. Small dishes that are all creative. Have to love this brick of butter for all to share on the counter.
This is the ceviche of the day.
This salad was a mixture of green beans, peaches and mushrooms. So good and fresh.
These sardines were amazing. Lathered in butter doesn’t hurt.
Before taking an afternoon siesta we stopped in Pierre Herme. This is a double napoleon. One of the most decadent delicious items. Someone turned me on to these over a decade ago and I go back at least once a year for this treat.
Dinner was at Le Servan. It was easily 98 degrees inside but the food there is the best meal we have had all month. Everything was excellent. The room in itself is very edgy with an old school vibe with a hand-painted ceiling that feels very Parisian. The Filipino duo behind the restaurant is Chef Tatiana Levha who trained at L’Arpege and L’Astrance and her sister Katia (front-of-house).
We began with the wontons. Deep fried wontons stuffed with boudin noir (black pudding) with a sweet chili sauce for dipping on the side. We savored these.
Tiny mussels steamed in a spicy thai broth with thinly sliced red peppers and thai basil on top. So good.
Grilled squid on top of a galette (crusty cake) stuffed with vegetables and small crispy pieces of ham with two sauces on the side, one of them had some heat. The mixture of flavors was amazing. We were blown away by this dish. That crispy ham layered into the crunchy and soft vegetable galette with a piece of buttery yet crisp squid on top and then dipped into the sauce was divine
Oysters from Utah beach layered inside a thinly sliced green mango salad.
Crispy piece of grilled duck served with sweet cherries with tiny beets.
Roasted pork with roasted eggplant and a grilled piece of tofu.
We left nothing on the plates. We considered dessert which was either cheese and a salad or two dessert options. Figured we had our treat of the day and we were drenched in sweat so it was time to go. I can hardly wait to go back and also the menu changes nightly….but hopefully, the weather will be a little cooler next time.
Huge fan of the Rodin museum and know Coutume.Remember the great scenes there in MIdnight in Paris I”m sure.Enjoy!
one of my fave woody allen films
Oh, I was in Paris during the last heatwave….and it was crazy! The Louvre was the coolest place we could find and even there it was about 85 degrees — and the air was so still! I don’t think we felt really cooled off till we got on the plane. Nevertheless, it is Paris after all and we had a glorious time. Sounds like you are, too! Tho beware the steak tartare if the heat persists. ? Enjoy!
Huge fan of Rodin. I love a couple of little places you might try. Un Petit Vatel and La Cremarie. Both are in La Grande Marche. Un Petit Vatel gave me the recipe I use to make Vin D’orange every year. He makes it and give guests a complimentary glass if you ask.